That’s Why They Call it a Theory

Fact: I always have to shorten my patterns two inches. Always! No matter what pattern I choose. If I make up a pattern without shortening. on donning the finished garment, I will resemble a chubby 4 year old clattering around in her mother’s heels.

Fact: I am short-waisted; very, very short-waisted. The distance between the bottom of my bust and the top of my belt is best viewed with a microscope. When they invent the belt-bra, I will be the first in line at the cash register.

Fact, unaltered V-neck patterns, expose things best left hidden forever.

Fact: Linda, Kubrik, designer of Elements, the new pattern-line Bullard Designs* is carrying, is one tall drink of water. She’s tall and slim and the distance from her belt to bust is wide, very wide, grand canyon wide.

Fact: Because independent pattern designers can relate best to their own body-types, their patterns are usually designed for bodies similar to their own. Therefore, if you know a designer’s build, you can project which body type her patterns will flatter. Apple shaped designers design garments with loose waists and exposed arms. Fashion model shaped designers should be designing garments with long waists.

Proposition: In theory, when making up one of the Linda’s patterns, Elements’ Vest 103, where the waistline is an important design element, I should shorten the upper body by a minimum of two inches.

But as I have made up patterns without testing the fit with a muslin and lived to rue the day I chose to take the extra step of making a muslin. Turns out, that was a wise choice.

So, after deciding the fabric/embroidery design combination for my next project, the Element’s Vest 103 pattern I began with a muslin.

 

Before starting the muslin, I did take a pre-emptive strike and shortened the bodice. The pattern has a wonderfully interesting X shaped back which made shortening a challenging task. Taking out one inch above and one inch below the middle of the back required reshaping and re-angling all of the back pieces; making sure each matched the one next to it and had the appropriate seam allowances. The front was a much simpler task, a breeze after the back.

So I made up the test muslin. Yikes! The vest was hiked up under my breasts. I was Erkel sans suspenders. My top looked shorter than usual. Is that even possible?

I experienced something I’ve never experienced before, a too short top. Two inches too short! I can’t believe it.

My original plan was to whip up the vest and post a picture of it when I posted this blog. As is the norm for my projects, the original plan has had some major additions. The vest is taking way longer than expected so its not yet ready for prime time. Here’s a picture of the back, so far.  I feel another blog in the making.

* In case you didn’t know it, Bullard Designs is my company. We specialize in embroidery designs but also sell sewing patterns from a variety of sources.

On With the Show

Ahh… I can’t believe it. Sew Expo is over for another year. The booths dismantled, the boxes packed and all that’s left is the memories. Now is the time for reflections, pithy sayings and a recap of the week.
So here it is, my collection of vignettes from the show. Be warned, a sewing show from a vendor’s view is very different than that of an attendee.  My only views were of the booth, the people who visited my booth, and my classes. Pretty myopic.

This year I taught 5 classes and gave 2 talks on a free stage as well and I accompanied a young sew-ist down the runway in a fashion show that highlighted the future of showing.
The show had 32 time slots for classes and still managed to schedule me for the 8:30 timeslot every morning. It’s not that I mind speaking that early in the morning I love mornings. I’m one of those crazy people who greet the sunrise every day. (I know it’s unnatural but it’s the way I am.) What surprised me is that so many people came to see me that early in the morning. I’m pretty sure that at least 1 person in each class attended with eyes sealed shut and a drawing of an eyeball applied on the eyelid.

My classes were all full! In most, there wasn’t a single spare seat. In two of the classes people paid for standing room. Wow!

This year I strayed from my usual Quick Gifts Embroidery Style  class to teach a new class; Machine Embroidery Virtuoso. I covered ways for machine embroiderers to make their work even better. I am writing a book and the class is some of the concepts from that book. It’s always great when you attract a lot of people into the room but that’s generally the result of a good class description. What’s better is when the attendees love the class.

I’m used to people liking my classes. I show fun things, I’m a bit of a ham and get lots of laughs, and I try to have new information each time I teach. What’s not to like? But this class was different. It was like I had brought bread to the starving. Eyes lit up, smiles appeared, heads nodded. I couldn’t have had a better reception if I had been throwing out gold coins.

I heard, “Your class was the best one I’ve ever taken!” many, many, times. The best quote was, “Your class was worth the price of the class, the price to attend the show, and the price of my plane ticket here!”  (And yes I am preening as I write this). By the end of the weekend I had trouble getting out the door, my head was swelled so big.

The classes didn’t take all of my time. I also spent time in my booth, working. The best part about working the booth is that I get to see old friends, make new friends, and spend time talking about sewing.
We offer free designs to anyone who comes to our booth wearing our embroidery designs. I would have more pictures except, silly me, I didn’t think to pull out the camera until late in the show.

I only have two pictures from Naomi. She actually came by with three different outfits. The designs are from Crystal of the Month Club of which she’s a member. You can’t see it on line but these designs shine with crystals.  And Naomi shines, too. The stitch-outs ain’t too bad, either.

Jeanne also came by multiple times, wearing a variety of clothes, all with our designs. Unfortunately, I only have pictures of one. Luckily it’s spectacular. The designs are from our Brilliants collection.
Talk about versatile, Rosemary used the same  Brilliants designs. Look how different they are from Jean’s. Rosemary fell in love with the fabric she put in the hood. She added the embroidery to coordinate with the hood fabric. I love the finished look of designs coordinating with the jacket – without looking matchy-matchy.

Notice anything unusual about Janeen’s embroidery? It’s not exactly attached to her clothes. She really meant to sew up something for the show and didn’t get to it. she was determined to get the free designs so she stitched out this bear from Crystal Critters.  and hung them on a rope. Kind of sad for the bear, hung sideways like that, but good for Janeen. She received free designs.

On another note, I was let out of the booth on Sunday to accompany my young sew-ist, Mentee down the aisle in the charity fashion show. The show was designed to showcase the talent of young people who sew. The Sew-Expo folks paired up sewing professionals with sew-ists, supposedly for us to act as mentors. My Mentee, Mia, is 12 years old and incredible. I’d like to take credit for Mia’s work, but the reality is that I did very little. She’s so talented and such a self starter that I didn’t need to do anything. Her jacket has 5 zippers and used a double needle. Everything looked perfect. My only input was to offer an embroidery design for her to stitch designs on the back.

The downside to being a vendor is that I don’t get to visit other booths. I just don’t have the time. If you’re reading this expecting to hear all the newest, coolest stuff in the sewing world, you might as well as close the browser now. Not going to happen. It can’t happen. I didn’t get to see those things.
The show was a success. I was able to purchase three small things there. Luckily I have a helpful secret shopper, Cindy, (see the last post to see Cindy’s picture). She found a few things I couldn’t live without, things I needed.
 
And now we’re home and on to the next adventure.

The Glamorous Life of a Sewing Star

Most people who read this blog know that I’m a professional in the sewing world. I write for magazines, speak in multiple national shows, have ribbons from nationally ranked quilt shows and have been featured as a top designer.

Sounds glamorous, doesn’t it, with visions of me traveling down the street, surrounded by my entourage, with scores of gorgeous men throwing themselves at my feet.  Ahh… if only that were true. Instead, my life is often filled with a manual labor and humdrum tasks.

Wednesday of this week found me in high drudge mode; I had the excitement of setting up for a sewing show, manual labor of the highest order. The show is Sew Expo, one of the largest sewing shows in the country, probably the largest that is geared for garment sew-ists.  Sew Expo is held in the metropolis of Puyallup, Washington and I attend each year as a speaker and vendor, which means that Bullard Designs sets up a booth at the show.

As always, the show promoters have cleverly scheduled the show at the end of February, with predictably bleak weather. I’ve been to the show for the last nine years and only once during that time do I remember seeing even one ray of sunshine. At least I think I remember that. It’s possible it’s just something I dreamed.

Part of the joy of setting up a booth at  tradeshow is that you have to bring a whole store’s worth of ‘stuff’ with you.

First you pack your van, stuffing in all kinds of exciting paraphernalia ranging from boxes of product to the very walls you’ll need to display it.

Unfortunately, packing the wares isn’t good enough. When you arrive at the show, those same items must be unpacked, and moved from the van to your booth space. As I have not yet conquered telekinesis, this involves extreme manual labor.

To ensure a maximum amount of discomfort for the vendors transporting their wares from their vehicles to their show spaces, the show organizers open all of the doors and leave them open for the duration of the setup period. This wouldn’t be a problem if these were ordinary doors, but no, the doors into this establishment are super doors, large enough to accommodate the Mongol hoards including elephants. As we’re in the booth closest to the door we get to experience all of the rain, wind and snow at close range

This year we chronicled the setup process. Here’s the space as it looked when we  first arrived. We were able to capture the space during a lull in the wind.

The only way to approach this is with humor so despite the weather, we managed to keep our spirits up. And by we, I mean, Cindy S, who actually organizes my show life and keeps me on the straight and narrow, and DH, Randy, the love of my life who plays the role of mule, master technician and salesperson when we’re at tradeshows.

Contrary to the evidence shown here, Randy does not spend all of his time in a cage.

I could go into detail about the frustration of unpacking, the search for the tape gun which you knew was in the under-the-table box but in reality was found in the box for the crystal rack. Or how we must have used an alternate alphabet when boxing the design set CDs at home which impeded the arranging of said CDs on the way. You get the gist of it.

Somehow, just when chaos seems to prevail, a little order surfaces.

 

Eventually, good does triumph over evil, and our booth takes on a semblance of sanity and order (the illusion we work hard to maintain).

We’re now two days into the show, and things are going well. The booth still looks close to this, although the crystal rack has bare spots and there are fewer CDs on the wall. I daresay that the three of us look a little worn, but our spirits are still high.

So, hello from the show.

Getting to the Show

Previously on The Self Proclaimed Queen of Bling:
When last we followed our stalwart heroine (otherwise known as the Self Proclaimed Queen of Bling) she was splayed across a grindstone, her nose shrinking at an alarming rate as it was pushed against a grindstone.

The reason:
Overwhelming deadlines rushing to the heroine (the Self Proclaimed Queen of Bling) faster than a speeding bullet. The first deadline; the extraordinarily huge sewing show, Sew Expo in Puyallup, Washington. The second deadline; the taping of a new sewing show, “It’s Sew Fun” two days after the heroine’s return from Puyallup, Washington.

And Now:
Our heroine spent an exhilarating day at the Old General Store in Drytown in the land of California. She was joined, for this day, by 10 good, no great, Samaritans, each volunteering their time and expertise to help the heroine in her time of need. Now, relieved of the pressure of the grindstone against her nose, our heroine is finally coming up for a breath of air and taking the time to chronicle her adventures in the land of the Old General Store with The Great Samaritans.

Let it be noted that the Good, no Great, Samaritans are each wondrously beautiful women with hands so gifted that everything each of these women touches turns into glorious works of art.

And so the Good, no Great, Samaritans took the lengths of fabric transformed by the heroine from beautiful pieces to extraordinary pieces by the addition of judiciously placed machine embroidery (all designed by our stalwart heroine) and created works of wearable art.
The heroine was amazed at the industry and talent of each of the Great Samaritans.

They employed marvelously advanced technology in their quest for the highest quality of fiber art.

Their machines sang with productive humming songs as they transformed the fabric into clothing.

The Samaritans used their wondrous talents to bedeck the pieces with jewels.

Even as they worked they found time to enjoy the company of others.

And as each completed her work of art, she held it up so all could enjoy the beauty.

With the help of the Great Samaritans your heroine was able to remove her nose from the grindstone and breathe most easily and return to the land of the living.

Color Wars

As I mentioned in my last post, in a few weeks I'll be filming a segment to be aired in a new sewing show, "It's Sew Easy."

About a week ago I opened my inbox to find  an e-mail offering me, as one of the presenters on the show, a choice of fabric from Vogue Fabrics to use for samples. Swe-e-et! Charge card-less shopping!  Stash building but no cash depleting.

Unfortunately, the perk came with a price. Because of an ordering snafu, the fabrics arrived Tuesday of this week, a mere two weeks before my leaving for Sew Expo; two weeks to sew 3 garments.

I started yesterday with the obligatory fabric fondling starting with a sweet pale yellow linen. After a trip to the washer and some quality time at the ironing board (this is linen, after all) I was ready to start.

I think you know by now that I think that when it comes to my sewing, I'm a compulsive planner. I believe in sewing muslins, doing trial stitch-outs of all embroidery designs and testing a variety of color combinations before embarking on a project. In my book, auditioning is the key to success. Try this and see how it looks. Try that and compare it to the first. I'm an experimenting kind of gal. One of my friends, who has the 'damn torpedoes, full speed ahead' philosophy goes in the opposite direction diving right in to seek instant gratification. Let's just say I've seen a few wadders in her house; pieces that don't fit, or items with color combinations just a little bit off.

However, feeling the pressure of time, this one time I decided to bypass the test stitch-out. The fabric was gorgeous, I've sewn these designs just short of a zillion times and and I was in a hurry, a real hurry. While my machine was busy stitching its little heart out I was packing the van to prepare to speak at a quilt guild. So sewing -wise, it was damn the torpedoes for me.

The Fabric: - an elegant  pale yellow pants weight linen from Vogue Fabrics.

The Pattern: -Vogue 8654, a fun little jacket (We'll have it on our website in a few days)

The Designs: Bugged from Bullard Designs (that's me, the Bullard of Bullard Designs)

Bugged Embroidery Designs
(This photo is from the back of a jacket which
is why you see the drape of the fabric)

Colors: Lilac and purple embroidery on the creamy yellow.  I have used this combination before and loved the look.

The color combination I planned to use.
Design shown is from the Zelda Designs.

So take it away. I started the machine stitching. Not willing to do the easy thing I slipped in a third color- a gold. That seemed like a no-brainer. Gold looks great with purple, gold looks great on creamy yellow.

I think you know where this is going.  The end product was not what I imagined.

Bugged Embroidery Designs 

So here it is. I still love the lavender against the lilac. What I don't like is the greenish- gold innards.

Hmm.. So now, time to check to see if I have enough fabric to continue with this pattern. If not - big plan B - choose a pattern that takes less fabric.

Back to the drawing board for a test.

  

My next try was spot on. Oddly enough, it’s what I first planned- lavender and purple on the pale yellow.

I love the look.  The embroidery is done, the pieces cut out and all put in a bag for my helpers to sew tomorrow. If all goes well I'll have pictures of the finished jacket by the end of next week.

Working My Nose Off

In three weeks Randy (DH) and I head to Puyallup, Washington for the Sew Expo sewing show, our biggest show of the year. In Puyallup, I'm teaching two different sessions, one of which is on the free stage and is about clothing; embroidery on clothing to be exact. (It's at 8:30 in the morning if you're going to the show). A great clothing segment requires samples, lots of samples.

Because preparing for our biggest show of the year isn't enough pressure, this year I have an additional stress-point. Right after the show, I climb aboard a great silver bird and head to Ohio to tape two segments for a new sewing show that debuts this spring on PBS channels. When I say right after the show, I mean right after the show. My flight leaves the morning after our return. I'm not sure why these guys are taping in Ohio, that mecca of fine television productions. The sewing show segments also require samples. Of course, those samples have to be different than those for Puyallup.

As you can imagine, I'm in serious work mode. Every morning I wake up, check the mirror to see the size of my nose and the effect of the previous day's nose to the grindstone foray.

Don't get me wrong, I have lots of clothing samples. But... I've shown these samples before. To have new things to say, I want new samples to show. And, I certainly need new samples for the taping of the television sessions.

So, the clothing session plus making up samples for the television program has launched a spate of clothing production. To be more accurate, a spate of embroidery. I have not yet started putting the projects together.  I actually have help, a lot of help. One friend, Tamera, has already spent a day and half helping me cut out patterns and assemble documentation. Another friend, Tecla, spent the day with me embroidering huge embroidery designs using her new sewing machine with the mega sized hoops. And, for the actual construction, next Friday, a batch of friends will gather to help me assemble my samples.

We've done this in the past, and it has the feel of a sewing bee. Lots of wonderfully nice people, some food and an incredible amount of sewing work finished. At this point in my life I need lots of help and I'm so honored that these wonderful people will take the time out to work with me.



So far I have 5 projects ready to go, a mere 12 more to go.

I have been looking for any short cuts I can find. My first action was to check my stitch-out hamper to see if I had anything I could use.  Score! I found some rather large linen pieces covered with embroidery from my  On the Table embroidery designs.

 

I had enough fabric for two fronts and a back, I could see the dense flowers on one side front, the sprinkled ones on the other front and the back. In the spirit of adding more work to my already full plate, I decided that the dense flower arrangement had a heavier spirit than the lighter ones and I shouldn't include it. A few hours of embroidery later and I had 3 panels of linen sprinkled with orange, pink, and deep red flowers.  A little cutting (done by a friend) and I had a package with linen pieces and coordinating cottons ready for the big sew-in Friday.

And sew my life goes. Today I'm trying to put together package number 6.  After that, only 11 to go.

I'll keep you informed.

Screeching to a Halt

I was sure that by today I would have a blog entry with a picture of me arrayed in my newest masterpiece, the sweet little pink blouse I've been writing about in my last couple of posts. I can see it, the sueded silk shantung sveltly gliding over my body, showcasing my curves, my embroidery skill, my design style and my sewing expertise. But... as you see, it is not  to be. The sweet little top has a temporary home as an empty shell with ragged armholes, the sleeves lying demurely next to the blouse, unattached.

It seems that my sloper lied to me. Or, I guess the truth is that I didn't put enough time into the muslin/fitting process.

I made up the front and back of the muslin changing the top seam a considerable amount to allow the fabric to curve over the bust. Good plan. This part of the fitting worked. From the front the blouse fits beautifully, as though I had a whole bevy of tailors swarming around my body, tape measures in hands, pins in their mouths.

It's the shoulder and back that aren't right. I swear, in the muslin, the shoulder seam lay right on top of my actual shoulder, and the blouse back smoothly cover my back. And I I took the sloper apart and used it for a pattern so in theory the shoulder on the actual blouse should lay right on top of my shoulder and the back should smoothly glide over my back.

My body must have changed considerably between the time I tried on that muslin and the time I finished the the garment.  My back must have sunk in under the armholes, and my shoulders shifted forward. The garment does not fit! Let me clarify that, the back and shoulders of the garment do not fit. There's too much fabric around the shoulder area of the back, I have wrinkles where no wrinkles should exist and the shoulder seam has crept forward.

So that's my story. I'm on hold until I can get one of my favorite fitters to help me adjust the armscythe, shoulder and sleeve cap.

Dog gone!  I want to finish this guy.